My encounter with the devil

Christmas so far in Europe has been on display in the form of the most gorgeous Christmas decorations and light displays I have ever seen. The Christmas markets are an especially magnificent highlight of Christmas time here, with the individual wooden stalls all done up with fairy lights standing in rows creating the perfect white Christmas atmosphere.

I have been told that the Christmas markets in Austria are the best, so while I have been in Vienna and Salzburg (both of which I am utterly LOVING and will write about later) I have made sure to venture to them. Last night i teamed up with another aussie girl in my dorm and we went to the Christmas market where they had a choir of people singing beautiful hymns and carols. With the snow falling, all rugged up in our winter gear and a hot bratwurst sausage in my hand I was enjoying myself immensely.

Market scene

me with my wurst

Today we returned to this market and again there was a performance, this time a group of kindergarten children. We were enjoying their performance when suddenly the most hideous, scary monster came out of nowhere. Beating a drum and with bells ringing with each step. He climbed up the steps to where the kids are and started to approach them looking menacing. While many of the kids started to cry and scream and huddle together to get away from it, another 2 monsters came of nowhere again with the same drumming and bells. I had NO idea what on earth was going on, they were scary enough for me let alone for the kids!

Its a wonder any of the kids want to meet santa! :S

After noticing that none of the rest of the crowd were particularly concerned, just more entertained, I began to suspect that there was more to this than just rude gatecrasher’s scaring innocent children.

The tradition is one of mainly Austrian and Hungarian decent, where the Krampus (or devil) is a creature that comes out during the advent season and follows St Nicholas around. While St Nick gives presents to good children, the krampus is there to warn and even punish bad children. The tradition goes that in the first 2 weeks of December young guys dress up as devils and roam the streets scaring children and women. Well can I just say that they effectively did that today! Wikipedia informs me that "In some rural areas the tradition also includes birching – corporal punishment with a birch rod – by Krampus, especially of young girls. Images of Krampus usually show him with a basket on his back used to carry away bad children and dump them into the pits of Hell". How intense is that!!!?!

The belief is also that if you get hit by these creatures they are thought to bring you good luck and blessings. Yea, no thanks.

Definitely one tradition that I am happy does not exist at home, something you have to be brought up with I think….. :S so for now I need to makes sure I avoid Christmas markets alone at all costs :P